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Jaeger-LeCoultre the Master Minute Repeater Watch
In 2009, the artists of the Manufacture, who cultivate very special ties with this exquisitely refined ornamental technique, wished to present a full-fledged anthology of their talent by offering two exceptional series illustrating two traditional enamel techniques – grand feu and champlevé enamelling – on two famous timepieces in the Jaeger-LeCoultre collection: the Master Minute Repeater and the Master Grand Tourbillon. And this article will introduce the the Master Minute Repeater and the age-old techniques.
In order to provide a particularly ‘striking’ demonstration of its expertise, the Manufacture has chosen to treat the dial of the Master Minute Repeater to a stunning interpretation in the form of enamelled miniatures of four famous historical paintings depicting Venus, the goddess of love. These works stem from a variety of sources of inspiration encompassing the Italian Renaissance, the Spanish school of art and French classicism, as embodied by the famous examples selected by the master-enamellers of the Manufacture: ‘The Birth of Venus’ by Botticelli; ‘The Venus of Urbino’ by Titian; the ‘Rokeby Venus’ by Velasquez and ‘Venus Anadyomène’ by Ingres.
Above and beyond their extraordinary expressive strength, these masterpieces adapt themselves superbly to the diminutive size of the dial on the Master Minute Repeater. The creative talent of the Grande Maison in the Vallée de Joux have chosen to associate the testimony of their admiration for these great painters with the crystal-clear sound of the Master Minute Repeater, featuring a sonorous opulence and flawless purity that represent a major breakthrough in the audible indication of time.
Nonetheless, in order to preserve the authentic horological nature of these exceptional artistic accomplishments, the four unique watches dedicated to the great names in the universal painting heritage do not merely show the hours and minutes. They are also distinguished by the presence of two additional indications appearing on the dial in a manner that is both ideally legible and perfectly discreet: the torque released by the two barrels is shown at 4 o’clock, and the power reserve at 8 o’clock.
To render the timeless beauty of these universal works of art, the artists of the Manufacture decided to reinterpret them through a technique developed in their workshop and which gives the subject of the painting an incredible effect of depth. The magic of a line perceived through the superimposed layers of enamel creates an exceptional appearance of profundity and intensity.
Simply moving the miniature gently under a source of light reveals a wealth of chromatic variations, unsuspected perspectives and nuances reflected beneath the shiny surface of the enamel. Each miniature is the result of a long creative process that starts by coating the dial with successive layers of a transparent white enamel flux that will serve as a luminous background for the chosen subject. Enriching this enamel base with a range of metallic oxide pigments enables the artist to create a broad spectrum of colours. These vibrant shades of enamel are then applied to the metal with a goose feather or a very fine brush, before being fired in the kiln several times until the exact hue is reached. The ultimate success of the work depends to a great extent on strokes that are as fine and accurate as possible, while each stage of firing at high temperatures (between 800 and 850 degrees Celsius) represents a major risk for the work of art in the making. This is what is known as grand feu enamelling.
Moreover, to guarantee the smooth running of the watch mechanism, the enamel artist must display absolute precision in every gesture so as not to exceed the infinitely small tolerances of around 2/10th of a millimetre.
Miniature enamel painting is the rarest and most precious of all the pictorial arts and the creation of such a masterpiece in this small a size calls for weeks of intense concentration, extraordinary patience, meticulous care and dexterity – as well as time itself which remains the measure of all things, since making a single dial calls for between 80 to 150 hours of exceptionally accurate fine craftsmanship.
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